Valances serve many purposes besides framing the top of a window. They should always be hanging so that the bottom of the valance just overlaps the top of the window to give a lengthened look to the overall treatment and not block out light or the view through the window. The width of the valance is determined by whether or not there are panels underneath. If there are panels, it’s best to have enough width on thevalance so that the panels can stack off the window onto the wall underneath the valance. A smaller valance without panels can be made to just overlap the width of the window on either side.
A valance can be a very effective way to tie together side-by-side windows where separate treatments would look awkward. One of my favorite styles is a box pleat or scalloped box pleat valance. This is a great solution for customers who prefer a more tailored, less fussy type of treatment. Other styles include mock roman valances (great for narrower windows), Kingston & Empire valances (adds soft curves to a room with too many angles) and of course traditional pleated valancesin many configurations. Swags and cascades are still considered the traditional look for formal valances –they’re a beautiful way to use trims and fringes.
Valances can be either board or pole mounted. A board-mountedvalance is also an ideal way to hide a plain metal traverse rod. We add enough projection onto the side returns so that the drapes can operate freely behind the valance, moving back & forth with ease.
A pole-mounted valance will be either swagged over the pole in a more freeform style or attached by rings. The pole method is best used in conjunction with stationary side panels or no panels.
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